LotusElan.info

June 2003

4th June 2003

The distributor is located in a very awkward position in the engine bay.  In fact you have to remove the front carb to get to it!  Because of this, ultimately I intend to fit an electronic ignition to the car.  I have chosen a Newtronic system for this.  However before I fit it, I decided to get the engine running on the original system.

Previous attempts to start the engine have so far failed.  I couldn't get a spark at the plugs and so decided to start by taking a look at the points. 

Removed the front carb and lifted off the dizzy cap.  The contact breaker adjustment screw was so tight that I had to remove the baseplate from the distributor, soak it in penetrating oil and apply considerable force to loosen it.  Things aren't helped by the fact that the screw head slot is very chewed up. - Fortunately the electronic ignition replaces all of this assembly.

There was no points gap at all, so this explains the lack of spark.  Reassembled the distributor components, set the gap and bolted the carb back on.

Turned the engine over but it still fails to start.  I think it fired once.  However there is now a very weak spark at the plugs.  Need to check fuel flow as the jets could be blocked.

Placed order for new ignition components and carb overhaul kit  with SJ Sportscars in Devon

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15th - Installed ignition coil - turned the key and the engine fired on the first attempt.  It took several more goes to get the engine to run.  Found that no choke and  pumping the accelerator a couple of times worked best before turning the key.

Once started the engine seemed to run ok for a couple of minutes, if a little roughly - there was a fair but of smoke around, but I put this down to oil on the exhaust manifold.  The right hand headlight pops up with no problem, but  there is no movement from the left.  Headlight don't seem to turn on.

Noticed an oil slick seeping out from under the car and promptly switched off.

Couldn't see where the oil had come from, so I'm assuming that it will be a main engine oil seal.  The dipstick comes out completely devoid of any trace of oil when removed.

18th

Compression Test performed with the assistance of David Polkey:

Started to strip engine bay in preparation for removing engine

25th

Removed engine from Car with much help from Pete & Dick.  Could  not get the angle right to remove engine & box together, so we separated them and removed individually.

The engine and gearbox are now parked in my workshop awaiting inspection.

28th

Cleaned the Engine with 'Jizer'  sprayed with a compressor and paraffin gun

Preparation for cleaning	Front	Back	Inlet	Exhaust

Remove the cylinder head and the sump pan after setting tdc and checking the alignment of the timing marks on the camshaft sprockets.

TDC	Checking the timing marks	Cylinder Head removed for inspection

The engine has previously been overhauled.  The first big end bearing removed showed that the shell was +.010.   The pistons were found to be +.020

29th

Cleaned the sump pan and gearbox

Built the Rear and part of the Front suspension.  Use copious amounts of Molyslip on spindles, nuts & bolts to hopefully avoid future rust.  Sprayed the inside of the box section with waxoil.