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January 2004

Having discovered that the clutch fails to disengage and that the likely cause was the friction plate being in the wrong way round, I proceeded to prepare to remove the engine.  At this point I came to the decision that rather than rush towards getting an MOT, I would see the project through to completion by renovating the wiring and paintwork.

Did some investigation into paint removal options:

  1. Paint Stripper - Possible risk of damage to the fibreglass through chemical action or water after washing
  2. Sand with D/A - Possible risk of damage to gel coat
  3. Sand by hand - Time consuming but cheap (financially)
  4. Soda Blasting - Expensive but quick

I decided to investigate the soda blasting option further. Following an extensive search, I found a company based in Yorkshire that can dry blast the car.  They visited me to perform a test in order to give a quote for blast cleaning the whole car.

Click on the image to see a bigger picture

Note the small black marks. These appear to be 'air bubbles'

The test was performed on the bonnet which, unlike the body shell, does not appear to have had many re-sprays. Below the top coat and primer is a layer of white material. Presently I'm unsure if this a factory primer or the gel coat. Underneath this is a bluey/grey material. The blasting process leaves the base material very smooth to the touch, but with small 'air bubble' holes in it. The white material and remaining paint is fairly coarse in texture, so would require further sanding if it needed to remain on the vehicle.
 

 

Pulled the engine out to check the clutch.  I hadn't put the plate in wrong after all!  The only reason we could see for the clutch not working was that it may have been seized to the flywheel and pressure plate.  I took the opportunity to replay the core plugs on the block.  Dropped the engine back in and tried the clutch again.  Still no joy.  The clutch just will not disengage.

 

Retrieved the interior from the upholsterers.  Everything has been recovered in black leather including two new door cards.

 

Removed the Engine bay and dashboard  looms in preparation for re-wiring.  Took notes & photographs and labelled  each wire as I stripped the old dashboard. 

 

 

My father in-law, Pete, suggested pulling the release arm to its furthest extent and then make the necessary adjustment to the operating lever clearance.  Tried this  and the clutch now works.  Re-fitted the radiator and installed the air-box, air filter housing and piped up the headlights.

Drove the car up the drive for the first time.  The clutch seems very heavy and is either on or off, with virtually no movement at the pedal for slipping.  I'll have to investigate this further, but the car is drivable.

 

Bled the brakes again and attempted to adjust the handbrake mechanism.  Installed the end cover plates for the wheel arches.  Put the trumpets onto the carbs and fitted the air filter.  Attached the gasket to the back plate with a little silicone to ensure a good seal with the air box.  Installed new seatbelt back plates as the old ones were severely corroded. Fastened the bonnet back into place. Installed the new front seatbelts.  Borrowed a huge soldering iron in order to fasten a new 'Lucar' connector to the oil pressure sender as the old one had snapped off.  Had a battery box made for the boot.

 

Started work on the new dashboard and wiring loom

 

Received the steering wheel back after being recovered